Monday, April 9, 2012

My extended family from Quebec were here for a month, and as always it was wonderfully pleasant. We were able to ID a Gray Whale and some Humpacks while they were here and even got in a series of dart games at the newly opened cantina in El Cardonal. We left rather early but the music did not stop until the last revelers left around 7:30 in the morning. A bit jarring, the cantina is only about 150 yds from our place, but it has not been repeated so far.


Gray Whale # 3 12



Brigitte at the wheel


The day The Q’s left my daughter Kersti and husband Bill came in. They have not been here in ten years so there were some visible changes in the town (paved street, sidewalk, new store etc) but they fell right into The Baja groove and were ready to experience everything.

First on the list for me was to get them in the water with some whales. Neither had been out with me before so the whole “whale experience” was new to them.


Kersti and Bill


The day started with yet another Gray Whale (#4 for the season) and then a search for some Humpbacks.


Gray Whale # 4 12


We were gifted with the appearance of three adult Humpbacks about 7 miles out from Punta Pescadero. Their intro was dramatic, a double breach of two males side by side, totally clearing the water not 100’ from our panga…..and then the show started! Apparently it was either two males vying for a female (it is after all breeding season), or three males testing each other. We followed them for a good two hours and then I asked Kersti and Bill if they wanted to go in. Both said yes without hesitation, so we suited up and twice went in as close as we could get, which at one point, was no more than 20’. They seemed to be curious about us and totally benign as always. Turned out that Kersti has always been afraid of deep water (we were in about 1000’) and this was a major test for her. I was very proud of them both.


Kersti and Bill after whale swim


This is a pic of HB# 15 12, one of the three we dove with.


HB# 15 12

Just as a note, my friend Alan Pomeroy came across a Whale Shark on the 28th and took an extended swim with it…..congrats, Alan!


The day Kersti and Bill left, my son Zack came in for the week. He was here two years ago and had the full on “Whale Experience” with me then. A somewhat similar “competitive” event as Kersti and Bill witnessed with the addition of about 40 dolphin. On the 31st we got a radio call while on a grid search that there were two Humpbacks near Los Barriles, 15 miles south. We hustled down there but felt we had missed them until I spotted two kayakers in the area. We stopped and asked them and they pointed SE and said they saw them there about 20 minutes before. I asked Vicente Jr. to take an angle on Punta Colorado and we began the search. V Jr. is an “Eagle Eye” like his dad and about ½ hr later he spotted them.


HB# 16 and 17 12


We couldn’t get an ID on them because it was a mother/calf pair and she would not fluke up and leave her baby at the surface. I got a good series of flank shots and then asked Zack if he wanted to go in. he did and we were once again able to get relatively close but not enough to see them under water. We too took a hike to the pictographs, did 3 WZ kayak trips, worked out on the beach and did some fine visiting.


It was a very special time having my kids here, I can’t believe I was able to keep up with them.


Kersti and Dad


A few days ago while taking some compost out to the desert I spotted a large raptor in the branches of a small tree about 30’ from me. Even with the cataract I could tell that I had not seen this species before. I walked closer and was treated to the beauty of a Harris’ Hawk. This is the first one I have ever seen.


Harris' Hawk, not my pic


I went out on another grid search yesterday with Susanna, Steve and John. ID’d a Humpback off of Punta Pescadero and then went out deeper. No luck so started north and got a call that there was one still there. Was it the same one? Yes, but then we see it change course to intercept two other Humpbacks moving south. Soon all three are together and once again we have evidence of some “combat”. Some tail lobs, trumpeting and lots of flank collisions. Also two more ID’s…..a good day! Here are the two "combatants"


HB# 18 12


HB# 19 12


Picture below is me and Steve swimming with one of The Humpbacks



Friday, March 16, 2012



Vicente Lucero and Urmas, 2012


I’m starting my blog with this very recent picture of my “pangero” Vicente Lucero and me. This is our 8th season together as “The Dynamic Duo” of The East Cape. We have encountered and ID’d over 250 Humpback Whales, some of which were world class pictures, and thereby are the standard for that whale, at this time. We have had only one “recapture” (a whale identified by us in more than one season in our grid ) during our work so far. Here he is, HB# 12 12, ‘Odin”, and here is his story (taken from my book that is in review).



The Saga of “Odin”


The first whale I ID’d in 2008 was an active and playful male Humpback that gave Vicente and me a grand and long show of exuberant surface behavior. I figured he was a juvenile male of no more than two years old. He gave us a number of “flukes up” and became HB# 1 08. Later that year my son Zack adopted him and named him “Odin”.


In 2009 I again ID’d Odin (my first “recapture”) and saw him 5 more times during that season…..one time with a “girlfriend” that he had to fight another whale to keep, and he did. Once again his overall surface behavior was exceptionally playful and vigorous.


I didn’t see Odin in 2010 but lo and behold….and MUCH to my surprise, he showed up again last season (2011). The Humpbacks who travel here to Mexican waters during the winter breeding and calving season have 4 different and widespread locations within our waters to congregate, therefore “re-captures” are rare in exactly the same area from one season to the next. I also had the pleasure of swimming with him for a short while without even knowing it was “Odin” until I got his flukes picture up on my computer screen later. I informed Zack and Jorge about the encounter and it was agreed that this was indeed pretty amazing.


Then this season, 2012, yes, Odin shows up yet again! He was alone but just as active as ever, he’s a real showman! He is now also HB# 12 12, being my twelfth ID of this season. Zack is coming to visit in a few weeks…..will we dive with Odin? Will my son Zack have the unique opportunity to “meet” Odin, Eyeball to Eyeball?


"Odin", flank shot, 2012, HB# 12 12


The 4th sighting of “Odin” was a special day in a number of ways, not the least of which was seeing my dear friend Christine Lee Gist again. A delightful young lady with a deep affection for “The Whale People” and a quick, inquisitive mind….what better company on a grid run? Before the day was over we were treated to a large herd of Pacific Common Dolphin surrounding our boat, at least 2-300, along with two Grey Whales (rarely seen in The Sea of Cortez) and 4 Bryde’s Whales…..damn fine day!


Grey Whale, notice splotchy coloring and almost no dorsal fin


Grey Whale "fluking up"


Grey Whale fluke shot, GW#1 12


Bryde's Whale, note shape of dorsal fin


I should add that we had also gone out the day before and seen NOTHING…..perseverance furthers, no?


Here’s a nice shot of my extended family from Quebec (Tristan, their middle son, is in Norway as an exchange student right now). I have been honored by being adopted by them as a member of the family since 2010.


From left, Quentin, Antoine, Brigitte, Jean-Luc


I went out on a search last Monday with Vicente and came across this Blue Whale about 6 miles out.



Blue Whale, B# 1 12


He/she was not particularly cooperative so my ID shots are not good, but this one is not bad. I haven’t seen a Blue Whale in my grid for the last two years so it was a real treat.


I have had some real nice opportunities to kayak out to The WZ in the last few weeks but have not had any whale encounters. I have seen lots of dolphin, turtles and Mobulas, but no whales. The other day I came across 4 or 5 Vaquitas that let me get within 20 feet but then dove away. They are a porpoise rather than a dolphin, and are quite rare, found only in The Sea of Cortez I believe.


The pictures below are not mine but express certain feelings that I entertain at present.


I call this "Lament"


And Yet!!


There is a GREATER reality, is there not?

Tuesday, February 28, 2012



Local fishermen "rescuing" an entangled Humpback Whale

Two weeks ago yet another whale “rescue” took place here in Mexico. Again, a migrating Humpback had gotten entangled in a drift net near Loreto, where just last year my friend Michael Fishbach had rescued “Valentina”. Unfortunately we can expect more of this as the “engineered” need for more fish food prompts longer and longer drift nets and long lines. It is also the reason I carry 2 knives and a good pair of heavy weight shears in case we run across an entangled whale during a search. I always have my dive gear on board so, if necessary, I’m in the water.


HB# 5 and 6, good day!

On the 12th I went out with my friends Phil and Luise and we got ID’s on Humpbacks # 5 and 6. It was a beautiful day with lots of dolphins and Mobulas all around.



Dolphins riding our bow wake

We were all ready to dive with the critters but since it was early in the morning and wind chill can get you after a while we didn’t. I try to go in for a swim with the day’s last whale encounter so we can blast right away to the beach, home and a hot shower. I’m getting old I’m afraid, I didn’t even use to think of that!

Had a bit of a fiasco with my water pumps last week. First my main pump from the cistern started to leak, then my trailer pump. I fixed the trailer pump and decided to have my friend Jose Martin fix the leaks on the main pump. Well, he ended up breaking the front casing on the pump. After all was “said and done”, a ½ hour job and about 75 pesos of material ended up as 3 days without water and 435 pesos of materials. Does it ever ALL work out just like we wanted. Rhetorical question of course!

Here’s a little treat for you. Check out this artists creativity. Be sure and see the whole gallery to the end.

http://connect2hawaii.yolasite.com/macy.php


Garden Sculpture gift from Phil and Luise

Phil and Luise brought this beautiful piece of Cholla Cactus driftwood AND this equally beautiful and fine whale vertebrae to me as a gift before they left. I have placed it near my favorite sitting space and added the Komodo Dragon (a gift from my dear friend Rebecca Kress) as a guardian. Now I have decided to invite visitors to bring a favorite feather that they can hang on the cactus to remind me of my friends as their spirits dance in the breeze in front of me. Thank you Phil and Luise, a delightful gift and very thoughtful indeed!


My Quebecois are back!

My extended family from Quebec have returned to their home here on our land and are busy enjoying Shangri-La. It is such a delight to have them here, I am blessed. Jean-Luc, Brigitte and I kayaked out to The WZ twice last week and though we saw no whales we were treated to a major herd of Pacific Common Dolphin that swam through us in groups of 20-30 at a time. All together there must have been 100 or maybe even more. It was such a sweet image to see Brigitte sitting sideways on her kayak, legs dangling in the water and her sweet voice laughing with the pleasure of the moment. Jean-Luc dove in and was swimming amongst them for a good half hour. I love to see them enjoying the critters as much as I do.

On the 26th we went out in Vicente’s panga for a look see. With us this time were two of their three sons, Antoine and Quentin. Tristan is in Norway as an exchange student for the year. Within 15 minutes we spotted whales out about 3 miles and found two groups of two. For a while we went from one group to another to get the most immediate shot. It turned into quite a chase but after a couple of hours we had two more ID’s and were deep into the southern end of my grid. One was a calf and wouldn't fluke up and one simply didn't "cooperate" in fluking up.


HB# 9 12


HB# 9 on his side (one fluke up) with a dolphin just above his head

As we were returning north we got a radio call that there were two Humpbacks well north of us near Boca del Alamo. We hustled off and found them very close to shore and in front of San Isidro. Turned out to be a mother and first year calf (born here this year) and the first of the season for me. The mother would not “fluke up” because her baby was too young to dive deep so I didn’t get a fluke ID on her but did get a good series of flank shots that are very valuable for further study.


Mama, HB# 10 12

Calf, HB# 11 12

Yesterday morning, Feb. 28th, I was starting some water to my garden and I heard some heavy whapping sounds coming from the Seaward side of my land. I climbed on my bodega roof and there was a male Humpback doing a series of powerful tail lobs just outside the reef line (1/8 mile out). It was too cold and windy to go out for an intercept but I grabbed my camera, ran the 100 yds to the bluff above the beach and got this lucky shot.


Breaching Humpback, about 600' off shore

He was clearly signaling to all around, “I am here and ready for action” (that being wooing or fighting….or maybe sharing a song!). Shortly after this picture a Caracara (the true Aztec Falcon in the legend that became the symbol on The Flag of Mexico) flew by and I got this shot. Great way to start your morning, no?


The Caracara

Friday, February 10, 2012




HB# 4 12

On the 31st of January my good friend Leon Springer and his family came to see me here in El Cardonal. I had suggested long ago that they join me for a day of whale research and the timing seemed right. We had a very small wind window but early in the morning they arrived, the Sea was flat and we started our day. Vicente had hurt his back and was visiting The Curandero (same one I went to some weeks past) so our pangero was another of Cardonal’s fisherman, and good friend, Antonio. We went as far south as Los Barriles without seeing much besides some cavorting Mobulas but I kept hoping we would be lucky and find some Humpbacks. We followed my usual grid as far as Boca del Alamo and then started our run in…..ah well, we tried. And then, as has happened before, but not often, Antonio spotted two Humpbacks ahead of us. We were treated to a VERY CLOSE breach by what I suspect was a yearling (didn’t get a picture, not prepared), lots of pectoral slaps, roll overs and flukes up. I got two fine ID’s and everyone was happy to have had “The Whale Experience”.

Here’s a quote from a Yiddish Proverb that is somewhat appropo:

You can't control the wind, but you can adjust your sails.


Sunrise.....inspiration!

The other day I woke up to this sunrise and rolled over to get a few more Z’s. Then I thought about having heard a few days before that there were Humpbacks spotted near Los Barriles…..and a hunting pod of Orcas also. Cold morning or not I had to go out to The WZ. I put on heavier gear and launched my kayak just as the sun came over the horizon. Once again, great exercise, but no action. It did make me reflect however, on how important it is for me to get my butt out of bed when the whales call and do what I can to be there if they are interested in an encounter. As always I felt real good after the trip even though the Sea was a bit choppy and I got a bit cold.

On the 4th I went to Cabo to see an Opthamologist about a continuing vision problem in my right eye. He said the cataract there had enlarged sufficiently to need surgery soon. I’ll wait until after the Whale Season and then see how that’s all going to play out. Regardless, it is a major bummer but not at all surprising after more than 10 years of living with the Sea/Desert/Wind.

I am not sure I mentioned this before but I have been contemplating writing a book about my adventures at Sea and particularly with The Whale People. On my 70 birthday in November I decided the time had come to start. On the 6th of this month I finished the first draft. It was pure joy writing it, now comes the editing, picture choices etc and finding a publisher. If any of you know a publisher or editor that might be interested in seeing it, I am prepared to send some chapters for perusal anytime.


Moon Rise over The Sea of Cortez from my roof

On the 7th was the full moon and I got this shot off the top of my bodega roof. The next morning I took a walk to the beach and ran across my fox friend who hunts the area around my place in the early evenings and mornings. He is so beautiful and does a good job controlling the feral cats that abound.


Desert Fox, not my pic

Just two days ago I went out with Vicente (his back is much better) but had no luck finding whales. We are entering the beginning of the peak of the season that lasts until mid March so plenty of time for getting ID’s. If I stretch my funds I may be able to go out a few times in April too. Sometimes April is very good.

I’d like to leave you with this short clip. It was sent to me by my daughter Kersti. I am certain this is a voice that is a gift from The Great Mystery. I can just imagine how much my “Whale People” would enjoy this!

http://videos2view.net/2believe-JE.htm

Monday, January 30, 2012


No whale action since my trip out with Vicente and Elizabeth 3 weeks ago, but I’m going out tomorrow and taking an old friend, Leon Springer and his family out, and we may be lucky. Sea is looking real good today and tomorrow and Humpbacks were seen the other day just a few miles south of me. It’s still very early in the season.


Another of Nature’s sweet surprises, an Albino Hummingbird…..very rare. Courtesy of my daughter Kersti who is so very sensitive to my appreciation of the life on this planet.

And how about this critter? A 30’ (longer than my trailer) Angolan Crocodile….wow!!!



BTW, here she is with her husband Bill and their dogs hiking in Yosemite, a very recent discovery (Yosemite) for them.


Kersti, Bill & "The Boys" on the trail

I spent every summer in Yosemite from the time I was 6 until I became a teenager, hiking “The High Sierra” with my mom and brother, wonderful memories!


Peter and me at Merced Camp in The High Sierra, I'm the smaller guy

I recommend the following short video for those who love this wonderful planet as much as I do, or more. http://www.youtube.com/embed/nGeXdv-uPaw

Speaking of memories, the recent playoffs with The 49er’s were pretty nostalgic, no? Yeah, they lost to The Giants (can’t win when you have two turnovers result in points) but who would have thought they could go from years of losing to become a serious contender for The Super Bowl in one season? It also brought back memories of how important it was for me as an immigrant kid to be accepted by my new peers and how sports were my salvation. I was extremely shy, fearful and lacking in any confidence until I was “discovered” by my good friend Bill Symon in the fourth grade. He was already a serious and exceptional athlete and needed to put together a group of boys to play on the grammar school teams. He happened to notice that I was a natural athlete also. Now I don’t mean to imply I was necessarily an especially talented one, but I was gifted with excellent hand eye coordination and therefore could play American sports rather well. It was Bill that I owe for “taking me in” and demonstrating through example the nuances of team play and the skills I would need to compete successfully. What I learned from him literally changed my life. I am delighted that at this time in our lives we are still real close friends. We do not see each other often, but when we do it is as if time had stopped during those heady days as young, vibrant boys glorifying in our physical existence and I am filled with a deep gratitude for his part in my childhood.


Two young "sports", 8th grade, Bill on the left


Bill today, Palo Alto, California

On the 20th I was able to kayak out to The WZ. I wore a new wetsuit donated by my neighbor and friend Alex Cook. When I got out to The WZ, and it was a beautiful day, I kept thinking about The Mako Shark we saw a few weeks back and realized that it had reawakened a trepidation (not fear) of swimming in deeper Ocean Waters. I “hemmed and hawed” to myself and then knew that if I DIDN’T go in, I would return to my trailer with a feeling of defeat. Therefore, I rolled in and swam around for a while and then lay on the surface on my back until all feelings of concern were gone. I am so glad I did that, and the new suit was a delight.


New suit and a beautiful day in The Baja

Below is a recent picture of my dear friend Christine Gist "playing" on a glacier. In 2010 she, and her friend (and mine) Linee, accompanied me on a whale search and “called” in some Humpbacks. It is just that energy that she radiates in this photo that I believe The Humpbacks were attracted to that day.


Christine Gist.....being Christine!

A reminder, and an appeal….help us preserve the Marine Environment, respect Grandmother Ocean!!


The World Ocean is no place to hide the trash!

Tuesday, January 10, 2012


Natalia Avseenko

Years ago I taught Russian History as a sideline to my Natural Science classes at the college. One of the many things I came to respect in The Russian People was their almost super human physical stamina in the face of a brutal climate. This was/is of course most tested in winter, and was the true agent of defeat for both the armies of Napolean Boneparte and Adolph Hitler. The picture above is not mine but I can vouch for it’s authenticity. The woman you see diving with some Beluga Whales is Natalia Avseenko, a Russian yoga instructor and World Class Free Diver. She had heard that Belugas would not swim with Humans because we were always wrapped up in all manner of synthetic dive gear and therefore unpleasant to be around. She decided to test the theory by diving naked in Arctic waters after a hole had been cut in the ice to allow her access to The Belugas underneath. This picture is one of a handful taken of her during her swim….need I say more.

A few weeks ago, on one of the rare days I can go out to The WZ at this time of year due to wind, I came across a small herd of Dolphins and started singing “Boop Boop be do”. They seemed to like it so I was able to kayak with them for a while as they swam slowly beside me. I’ll have to try that again, it might mean something in their lingo.

More and more “Street Art” is showing up worldwide. Personally, I LOVE IT! For me it is an expression of creativity, joy and hope during a difficult time of change. An era is coming to an end, thank The Great Mystery, and it is nice to see the human spirit continue to flourish.



Went in to Los Barriles with Alan and Marilyn Pomeroy to catch the 49er’s winning their final game of the season and assuring a week off before The Playoffs. Saturday next they play The New Orlean’s Saints, always a tough go for them.

On the 6th I was able to kayak again and came across a large herd of Common Pacific Dolphin. I made a perfect intercept and had them on all sides of me for a good 5 minutes as I paddled along with them. Definitely one of my favorite things to do here in Baja California Sur. Waters are too cold for me to go in at this time of year. Didn’t used to be but the chill factor really gets to me nowadays.


Common Pacific Dolphins

Just finished an extremely well written historical novel titled, “Falls the Shadow” by Sharon Kay Penman. It is the story of the true life Simon de Montfort, a Frenchman who became England’s Earl of Leicester in the mid 13th century and, as much as anyone, was responsible for introducing parliamentary law after centuries of the indisputed authority of kings. Terrific read for anyone interested in the politics, intrigue and daily life in the middle ages.


Simon de Montfort, 1208-1267

On the 8th I took a group of folks out in the panga to help me search for whales. I had been out twice before without success but it was the family and a good friend of one of my past interns, Elizabeth Plumb, and since there was a weather window that day we went out.


Eric, Jim, Elizabeth, Evelyn, Iris

The weather was ideal, Sea as flat as a lake, sky clear and a good number of whales had been spotted just about 40 miles south of my grid during the previous week…..well, longshot but maybe, eh? We went south as far as Los Barriles and saw a number of Mobula doing their acrobatics and a very placid Sea Turtle that allowed us close alongside and even to be petted, that’s rare!

I decided to go out further to deeper water and head back north towards Boca del Alamo. As we were passing Las Tinas Vicente spotted a dorsal fin cutting the water nearby. At first he wasn’t sure what it was but as we got closer it turned out to be a good sized shark. Vicente maneuvered the boat to get closer and the shark seemed to be as curious as we were. At one point it followed us, passed just under the stern and then came up real close to the gunnel on the port side as if to get a closer look at us.


Short Finned Mako

It showed no fear and was clearly not intimidated by the boat. He was close enough to touch but we all were more than satisfied to just look at him “eye ball to eye ball”. I have dove with sharks before but this one gave off such a PRIMAL energy I didn’t seriously entertain swimming with it. Vicente was certain it was a Great White but I was skeptical. I sent the above picture to a number of my colleagues and the consensus is that it was a Short Finned Mako. It was about 8’ long and absolutely beautiful. It was a real treat to be in his presence and feel that primordial energy.

So, we had seen Mobulas, a Sea Turtle and a shark…..not bad. Soon after we spotted a Sea Lion and there was fear that The Shark might just get it but if it did we were not witness to it. AND THEN Elizabeth and Vicente spot……YES, a Humpback, no two!! HOOHAH!! It was not difficult to follow them, they were youngsters and maintaining a classic 3-4 blow series with “flukes up” after the last blow. I got two IDs, HB# 1 12 and HB# 2 12, as my first whales for the 2012 season. HB# 2 12 is the better picture so I'm posting it.


HB# 2 12

I'll leave you with this cartoon, tickled me.